New here. Stock chassis with 4 link plans.

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88st165
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Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2016 6:38 am

Re: New here. Stock chassis with 4 link plans.

Post by 88st165 » Wed Apr 06, 2016 10:21 pm

Sixtys Guy wrote:Nice truck! There are so many modded Clods about its nice to see the almost stock ones with some small mods.
88st165 wrote:I knew about them being out before I placed my order so I can't hold that against them. Just a simple quick reply to my inquiry would have been nice. I did get the 5% off when I placed my order.
Lack of communication is part and parcel of dealing with CPE. You just have to get used to it, or order from somewhere else.
Thanks. Eventually I do plan to have a race clod type setup but for now I'm happy with the stock chassis and getting to know the nuances of the stock based clod.

Good news is that my parts are shipping so I can continue my build and post some progress. I'm sure I'll be reaching out for more help.

88st165
Approved Member
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2016 6:38 am

Re: New here. Stock chassis with 4 link plans.

Post by 88st165 » Wed Apr 20, 2016 5:19 pm

Well I finally got time to work on the clod. It went together after a bit of trail and error. I first mocked it up using just the standard nuts but found after a couple quick test runs that everything was loose so I switch them out for nylon locking ones. I now got it to a point where its decently solid and only a few things left to really iron out like clean up the wiring, get a transmitter box, paint, etc. Also currently using 1 7.2v NIMH battery for now but thinking about getting an extra set of the stock battery caps and cutting windows in the chassis to have a mimic a twin of the stock battery tray so I can run two batteries and keep it looking clean.

4-link
-I found that when using the CPE center reinforcement bracket that the side mounting holes are larger which causes the Traxxas rod ends to sit inside them. This reduced the clearance and the body of the rod end to contact the bracket slightly during articulation. Might not be a big issue in the end but I just used the stock flange nuts to space it away from the bracket and it seems to be working just fine.

CYS S0150 Servos
-CPE vertical servo mounts went on fine. The Kimbrough 124 servo savers didn't allow enough room for the steering link to be mounted between it and the servo body so I had to mount it towards the outside. Not really a big deal but not as clean looking, functions 100% fine. I also have gotten the crab walk to work with the 3PL and I am pretty happy with it. I left the stock steering stops on the axle in place since I find that there is enough steering angle for me with the rear steer.

EVX-2
-I mounted the ESC on the stock bracket that is used for the steering servo. It fit perfectly on there but there were challenges to overcome as the bracket had to be mounted first, then the CPE center reinforcement place and 4links would have to be mounted after because this place covers the hardware. Getting to the 4link hardware while that servo bracket is in the way was challenging but doable. I then mounted the ESC to that bracket once the hardware was all tight. I glued the nuts to the bottom of the servo bracket because there is no room to get a tool under the stock servo mount to tighten the nuts holding the ESC. This method worked out great for me.

Traxxas shocks
-These installed with no issue. However the mounting at the top has play when using the stock hardware. It appears that the upper mounting holes are larger than the stock shocks. What do people typically do to solve this issue? I was going to find some bushings that are sized more appropriately but I figured that I would ask here first.

CPE wheel wideners
-I have not yet installed these. I opened them up and inspected the parts and they seem fine. However, I cannot get the stock drive hex inside them as the fit appears to be too tight. Are they supposed to be pressed in? I have apprehensions of doing that especially with 3d printed parts. Maybe someone could offer me some advice.

I got to try the evx2 and the titan motors with 14.4v and wow the speed and power is impressive (keep in mind I'm new to clods). The pulling power when I pull my son is much improved and it doesn't even break a sweat compared to the stock motors and ESC. Overall I am very happy with the results of the modifications from functionality to appearance. Next thing I am going to work on is figuring out a pulling hitch that will utilize the location on the axle where the stock steering pivot would be. I cant think of any other way to have a pulling hitch and keep the rear vertical steering servo.

Thanks to the members of this forum for sharing which allowed me to look back at previous posts for help and inspiration.


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SFC K
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Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2009 1:42 am
Location: Oakdale, MN

Re: New here. Stock chassis with 4 link plans.

Post by SFC K » Thu Apr 28, 2016 1:21 am

88st165 wrote: 4-link
-I found that when using the CPE center reinforcement bracket that the side mounting holes are larger which causes the Traxxas rod ends to sit inside them. This reduced the clearance and the body of the rod end to contact the bracket slightly during articulation. Might not be a big issue in the end but I just used the stock flange nuts to space it away from the bracket and it seems to be working just fine.

You need to get some conical washers to keep the rod ends from doing that. It also helps with binding. I installed them on both the bottom and side link attachment points.

I ordered them from Screw Loose Hex Head Hardware.
viewforum.php?f=64

Traxxas shocks
-These installed with no issue. However the mounting at the top has play when using the stock hardware. It appears that the upper mounting holes are larger than the stock shocks. What do people typically do to solve this issue? I was going to find some bushings that are sized more appropriately but I figured that I would ask here first.
For the shocks, I used the 3mm hardware from same vendor as above and used 3mm washers with a 3mm lock nut with a piece of RC Nitro fuel line stuffed in the upper shock hole. Make sure it is a little wider then the top hole in the cap of the shock so they can flex a little. Run your screw through the tubing and you should free up the slop and the tubing acts as a bushing. I will try an take a picture of what I mean...
Jeff