Modded Super Clod

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bgisbad
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Modded Super Clod

Post by bgisbad »

Picked up this Clod as an early xmas present for myself. Ran it around stock a few runs then started researching upgrades. Talked with the guys at CPE and picked up a slew of parts and the 2k15 terminator chassis as well as integy aluminum gear boxes, knuckles and tubes all around. I've read minotaurs bullhead to predator post multiple times and rather than the trial and error he experienced I decided to go for it all at once. I'm running traxxas evx esc and monster mash motor pair. Stock gearing and stock tires/wheels.

The rear lock out I received with the CPE package won't work with the new knuckles but the knuckles came with small nuts and bolts which I presume are to restrict the turning radius. Can these be used to lock the rear out? If not which lock out kit should I pick up?

What other considerations do I need to think about? Outside of having to pick up some longer hardware to secure the gearbox and 4 links.

Thanks in advance

Here's my before pic..
Image

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SFC K
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by SFC K »

Seems like you have done some home work. I have not dealt with the aluminum axles so for lock outs, you might have to modify something to lock it, ie lower and upper link tied to a upright bracket mounted to the axle like this CPE kit pictured.

Only other advise I would give for those axles is to lock-tite (Blue) all the hardware on those.
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Jeff

bgisbad
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by bgisbad »

I hear that, been using lock tight for most of what I think I've done correctly. Had some eBay cash lying round went ahead and picked up that CPE kit plus the front mounted steering server plate and hardware. Not sure if it's something I'm doing but the CPE long rods for the lock out and front mount steering are just a tad off when mounted to the integy gear box knuckle etc, tires look pigeon toe. I'll post a couple pics tomorrow when lights better.

Any one else run into this?

Haha and I thought this was going to be easy.

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87lc2
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by 87lc2 »

I dont have any experience with aluminum axles either, but I know the CPE parts are designed around the stock parts so it's quite possible the Integy parts are slightly different as far as dimensions. Doesn't take much variance to knock tie rods out of alignment, but it's easily fixed. When you say pigeon toed I'm assuming that the tires are negative toe so you would need to lengthen the drag link. All you need to do is rotate the turnbuckles out a few threads to lengthen. If it's the other way and you need to shorten the drag link just use a pipe cutter to take out the amount you need. If I'm way off and you're talking about something completely different I'll edit my response once I see your pics :)

Chumley54
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by Chumley54 »

The front steering rod needs to be lengthened to reduce toe-in, the rear wheel rod shortened.

I ground a little off my CPE rod in the rear to get to the point I wanted. In the front, I used a lock nut (Your pic shows lock nuts) to be able to loosen the rod end, un-thread a little and lock back in place. If the rear has locknuts, you can remove one and tighten up the end, just using one locknut on one end for adjustment.

The CPE links do not have locknuts when ordered new.
1989 Clod Buster - Work in Progress
1989 Black Foot - Heavily Modded
1990 Midnight Pumpkin - Stock
1990 Monster Beetle - Stock - for Now
2016 Unimog 406 CC-01 Chassis

FlySky GT-3B - Hacked
Flysky GT-3C - Still Stock

bgisbad
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by bgisbad »

Thanks for the replies. It's weird the integy gear case seems to match up, obviously that isn't the case. But here are some pics to show the toe in and lock out arm. Chum54 would you mind sending a pic or 2 I think I understand and but want to confirm.
Image
Image
Image

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SFC K
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by SFC K »

That bracket looks like it will bolt right up to the axle. For the toe in, I would just add some nuts between the plastic ball end and the threaded rod for the link until you get the right length. It does not look like it is off by much.
Jeff

Chumley54
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by Chumley54 »

The CPE photo you attached shows what can be done. I circled the nut. Brett uses a long 4-40 threaded grub screw to connect the rod and the ball link. They are tight, but can be loosened. Take off the ball joint (plastic part) and unscrew it. On mine, the screw stays on the ball joint. I add a 4-40 nut, like shown in the picture. 1 nut was enough for me. You can tighten it until the nut bottoms on the rod, or turn it out a thread or two and use the nut to lock it in place.

They screws are not turn buckles, so it requires removing the screw going through the ball joint, but it only takes a couple of tries to get it right. I initially made mine too long, toed outward, it becomes hard to handle.

Next time I mess with it I'll get some pictures.
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1989 Clod Buster - Work in Progress
1989 Black Foot - Heavily Modded
1990 Midnight Pumpkin - Stock
1990 Monster Beetle - Stock - for Now
2016 Unimog 406 CC-01 Chassis

FlySky GT-3B - Hacked
Flysky GT-3C - Still Stock

bgisbad
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by bgisbad »

Thanks Man, decided to take a step back and go with the stock term set up back to a stock front axle modded with CPE upgrades. Used some locktite to secure the lock out rod until I can to homedepot and sort out some lomger screws for the rear axle and other bits.

Once the snow melts some here in DC I'll get it out for a couple trial runs.

I'm an older schooler brushed set up guy and still getting familiar with lipo. If I decide to run 2s lip to the monster mash what can I expect?

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andymac0035
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by andymac0035 »

Ummm.... lots of smiles?.... :)

3S would really make you smile.... well till it burnt the motors out anyways.

darat76
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by darat76 »

the plastic ball ends are screwed onto the shafts, first time you go to take them off it takes some doing, they are so tight you'll want to grip the shaft and ends with pliers or something to "crack" (think loctite'd bolt or nut cracking sound) them, just make sure to use something to protect the shaft and plastic from the teeth of the pliers that will still give the grip. tiz a good idea to turn the plastic ball ends out the same amount at each end, the kit would have come with nuts, you use these to tighten the ball ends so that the shaft doesn't change it length, with 3 on the ball ends the last one is to keep the lockout rod tight on the lockout plate.

bgisbad
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by bgisbad »

Still snow and lots of water here so no test drives yet. Itching to get out there.... Thanks for the tips was able to sort the rear lockout and steering. Ending up going to the front mounted server. Th BTA that came with the kit was way too narrow on the stock axle without wheel wideners.

2s lots of smiles? Sounds like my type of bashing. =D> :lol:

Update soon to come, hopefully.. Thanks again.

LLCoolDL
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by LLCoolDL »

Those metal motor mounts, gear housings and buckles look awesome!

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SFC K
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by SFC K »

LLCoolDL wrote:Those metal motor mounts, gear housings and buckles look awesome!
They do look awesome, but they have ups and downs associated with them.
Jeff

bgisbad
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Re: Modded Super Clod

Post by bgisbad »

SFC is right. A lot of extra weight for the industry title factor. The mash motor pair are a bit slower pushing the extra weight. May have to upgrade to brushless. :?

Issue I'm running into now is the rear gear box is acting up. When under throttle or reverse I'll get a ton of clicking almost like its binding. Checked the stock pinion and its secure. Looks like I've got to take it apart and see what going on. Prolly need to order some new gears just in case. Hooray Clod!!