Brushless motor

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671CLOD
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Brushless motor

Post by 671CLOD »

Hello everyone! I was wondering if it is normal that my Clod has more reverse punch than forward punch? If I give it full reverse it would just flip over. When give it full forward throttle it just goes and this is from a complete stop. I'm running dual castle sv3 5700kv combos. I had to wire one of the esc in reverse to get the wheels to spin in the same direction.

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Minotaur
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by Minotaur »

What do you mean by wire your ESC in reverse? Brushless motors have no polarity. So, you wire up the ESC like normal, and then switch the three motor wires around until it turns the way you want it to go. At least that is my understanding and that has worked just fine for me.

If you did anything else with your wiring, you probably need to undo it and you will find your power is equal forward and reverse.

Note that depending on weight distribution, you might find that you flip over a lot more in one direction. In your case, it could be that the truck is quite front heavy.
671CLOD wrote:Hello everyone! I was wondering if it is normal that my Clod has more reverse punch than forward punch? If I give it full reverse it would just flip over. When give it full forward throttle it just goes and this is from a complete stop. I'm running dual castle sv3 5700kv combos. I had to wire one of the esc in reverse to get the wheels to spin in the same direction.

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shadowfocus603
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by shadowfocus603 »

The sidewinders can be programmed for reverse rotation with the castle link programming card. Switching wires is a thing of the past.

671CLOD
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by 671CLOD »

<a href="http://s909.photobucket.com/user/cwaguo ... r.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac29 ... zibhxr.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image.jpg1_zpsr3zibhxr.jpg"/></a>

This is how I wired the esc's. I just swapped the 2 outer wires on one of the esc's to get it to go the same direction. Im using a CPE Predator chassis and is only front wheel steering. I'm new to the hobby and thought this is a problem.

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Minotaur
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by Minotaur »

Link doesn't work.
671CLOD wrote:<a href="http://s909.photobucket.com/user/cwaguo ... r.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac29 ... zibhxr.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image.jpg1_zpsr3zibhxr.jpg"/></a>

This is how I wired the esc's. I just swapped the 2 outer wires on one of the esc's to get it to go the same direction. Im using a CPE Predator chassis and is only front wheel steering. I'm new to the hobby and thought this is a problem.

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Thunder VP
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by Thunder VP »

Sounds like the ESCs are using the reverse direction for forward. Typically the default setup gives only 50% reverse power.
Did you go through the calibration setup with your radio? If not try that. If still no luck then try flipping the servo reverse for throttle on the radio and switch 2 wires on each motor to get the directions back right.

Image
Brad, Thunder Tech Racing V.P.
http://www.thundertechracing.com

671CLOD
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by 671CLOD »

Well after talking to one of the guys at my lhs I managed to fix the issue. I reset the throttle profile on the remote, bind the remote again and swapped the wires around on both esc's. Now the truck wheelies going forward and stops when I hit the brake. Then after one pass I hit a curb and snapped an axle tube :cry: . This is the third axle tube in a week I've snapped and will probably go with aluminum. The first 2 snapped when I punched it from a stop. Thanks for the help. How do you post pictures from photo bucket directly to the post ?

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WWhiskey
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by WWhiskey »

671CLOD wrote:Well after talking to one of the guys at my lhs I managed to fix the issue. I reset the throttle profile on the remote, bind the remote again and swapped the wires around on both esc's. Now the truck wheelies going forward and stops when I hit the brake. Then after one pass I hit a curb and snapped an axle tube :cry: . This is the third axle tube in a week I've snapped and will probably go with aluminum. The first 2 snapped when I punched it from a stop. Thanks for the help. How do you post pictures from photo bucket directly to the post ?
the IMG link was working last week (bottom one),, but I couldn't make it work yesterday!
Sit down, strap in, shut up and hold on!

671CLOD
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by 671CLOD »

WWhiskey wrote:
671CLOD wrote:Well after talking to one of the guys at my lhs I managed to fix the issue. I reset the throttle profile on the remote, bind the remote again and swapped the wires around on both esc's. Now the truck wheelies going forward and stops when I hit the brake. Then after one pass I hit a curb and snapped an axle tube :cry: . This is the third axle tube in a week I've snapped and will probably go with aluminum. The first 2 snapped when I punched it from a stop. Thanks for the help. How do you post pictures from photo bucket directly to the post ?
the IMG link was working last week (bottom one),, but I couldn't make it work yesterday!

Image

671CLOD
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by 671CLOD »

Broke an axle tube after fixing the throttle issue.

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Minotaur
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by Minotaur »

Cool looking truck! Definitely go aluminum axle tubes - you won't be sorry. You might consider going aluminum knuckles too, as the stock ones are pretty easy to break.
671CLOD wrote:Well after talking to one of the guys at my lhs I managed to fix the issue. I reset the throttle profile on the remote, bind the remote again and swapped the wires around on both esc's. Now the truck wheelies going forward and stops when I hit the brake. Then after one pass I hit a curb and snapped an axle tube :cry: . This is the third axle tube in a week I've snapped and will probably go with aluminum. The first 2 snapped when I punched it from a stop. Thanks for the help. How do you post pictures from photo bucket directly to the post ?

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GhostTown
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by GhostTown »

Minotaur wrote:Cool looking truck! Definitely go aluminum axle tubes - you won't be sorry. You might consider going aluminum knuckles too, as the stock ones are pretty easy to break.
What brand of aluminum axle tubes/knuckles would be good? A brand available today.

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Minotaur
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by Minotaur »

I have Hot Racing tubes and a combination of Integy & Hot Racing knuckles. The Hot Racing tubes have been fine, no issues at all but everyone seems to think the Integy's are a little better (be careful installing the bearings on the HR's). On the knuckles, the ClodTalk wisdom is that the Integy's are better, and I agree. The problem with the HR knuckles is that they use little plastic spacers to fit into the "C" of the axle tube. If and when a screw backs out, well, you lose the stupid plastic spacer. Plus, the arms on the HR knuckles are easier to bend. Note that the Integy knuckles have the steering stops, so you will likely need to dremel those off if using them on the front. Doesn't matter for the rear unless using rear steer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Clod-Bus ... 3aa7c3e8b1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Integy-Aluminum ... 2a4946bad9

It is tough (impossible?) to get reliability out of the Clod system with big brushless power. I ended up with an entirely aftermarket powertrain in an attempt to make it all work. CVD's were a big improvement since I kept breaking the stock axles (the little drive pins would always break). Both RC4WD and Thunder Tech (TTR) sell CVD's.

I went aftermarket on the gears too. Locked/metal gears in the back, and metal gears with a TTR ball diff in front. My issue was that I kept killing the little sun/spider gears. Basically, my Clod would lift one wheel off the ground in a turn, and the lifted wheel would start spinning very quickly. When that wheel came down, it usually broke the gears. I forget who it was, but another forum member diagnosed the problem for me. To fix it, I tried locking up the front axle with a locker gear from Hot Racing, but it made the steering almost impossible. The TTR ball diff solved it (if you get one, tighten it as much as you can). So, I usually break something other than the gearbox on my runs these days (steering is often an issue).

I had no luck using basically any Tamiya parts, but some on this forum are able to do it. Of course, I am trying to get similar bashability out of my Clod (30 - year old design) as compared with my brushless RC8T. Honestly, it is a losing battle. If you want to bash a brushless Clod, you are just going to break parts. Nothing like them when they work though.

Check out my build thread, and you can see all the trials, attempted fixes, and carnage. :explosion:

Good luck!
GhostTown wrote:
What brand of aluminum axle tubes/knuckles would be good? A brand available today.

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shadowfocus603
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by shadowfocus603 »

I'd stick with plastic knuckles were it me. A hard shot on the front is going to bend aluminum. Plastic knuckles are an easy to replace (read quick) fail point. Andy noted this in his T2 Terminator build. I have seen his truck run in person and it's all plastic. If parts break easily it's probably because it's 20 year old plastic. I am in the process of swapping in new plastic in my axles and will keep the old stuff as spares. FWIW I hit a curb dead on my first run at pretty much full clip and nothing failed. I have bent links but not broken anything.

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Minotaur
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Re: Brushless motor

Post by Minotaur »

I have no idea how some of you get the durability that you do from the Tamiya plastic. It didn't work for me - not even brand new parts. Can't believe you nailed a curb and didn't break anything.

But, you can always go aluminum tubes with plastic knuckles and see what you get. Like you said, they are easy to swap out.
shadowfocus603 wrote:I'd stick with plastic knuckles were it me. A hard shot on the front is going to bend aluminum. Plastic knuckles are an easy to replace (read quick) fail point. Andy noted this in his T2 Terminator build. I have seen his truck run in person and it's all plastic. If parts break easily it's probably because it's 20 year old plastic. I am in the process of swapping in new plastic in my axles and will keep the old stuff as spares. FWIW I hit a curb dead on my first run at pretty much full clip and nothing failed. I have bent links but not broken anything.