A short FAQ compiled from the old board!

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A short FAQ compiled from the old board!

Post by RCGUY » Tue Feb 17, 2004 4:24 am

Below is a collection of some of the more popularaly asked questions on the old board. I have saved them and organized them into a FAQ of sorts. I hope this helps with some of your questions, if not just post them and I will (and others) will help you as much as we can.

Thank you, Michael

General Questions:
Posted by bullit67
I was wondering what would be the better chassis for rock crawling, either the Gecko or Venom? I am going to build my first rock crawler, the Gecko looks like it has better articulation for hard core stuff but looks can be deceving. Any help would be great I cant wait to get started with the build.
Reply by 82supra:
Which is better, the Venom or the Gecko? Well, they both have their pluses and minus's.

The Gecko is a small compact, light weight chassis. It has all of the articulation you could want (around 90 degrees). The suspension is very tuneable and with different shock lengths, you can set it up for rock crawling in any terrain. With the low center of gravity the Gecko is very hard to roll or flip.

The Venom is a larger, more aggressive looking chassis. The cantilevers give the Venom a unique look and provides ample articulation and suspension travel. The Venom certainly doesn't have any less articulation than the Gecko chassis. The shorter wheel base of the Venom contributes to a very quick steering set-up. The battery is mounted on the bottom of the chassis, keeping the center of gravity low. The battery is definitely the heaviest part of the Clodbuster and by mounting it as low as possible, the Venom is very stable.

Posted by kkphoto:
I am new to this group and a current E-maxx'r. Crawling with a Gecko looks kewl! I don't have a Clod, and it looks like I'd be replacing most parts anyway, so I'm starting from scratch. I would appreciate your experience with different motor, esc, servo combos, and any other part suggestions you may have when building a Gecko.

Reply by 82supra:
Good question, alot of people often wonder what is the recemmended set up is, here is a complete list detailing each "section"


-4ws Steering Kit (4ws is required for tight cornering)
-High torqye servo (100oz of torque is recemmended, although more is ok Servos from Futaba, Hi-tec and Airtronics are good)
-Kimbrough #124 Heavy duty sservo saver (A must have unless you want to constantly be replacing your servos)
-Front and rear bumper (these will protect all your investments)


-Sport Radio system (AM or FM, rock crawling doesn't require a top of the line racing radio, I use the XR2 and XR3 radios made by JR racing)
-Novak Super Rooster (the best super rooster for rock crawling, these are great, tough esc's.)
-Stock clod motors or Magnetic Mayhems with an 8 or 9 tooth pinion (Yes, I am recemmending a stock motor, The Mabuchi or Johnson stockers are great for rock crawling because they have 0 degrees of timing. This allows for great high torque, at low RPM's. Motors such as mod motors have higher degrees of timing, which makes the torque at a higher RPM.)


-Gecko chassis Kit
-3.5" or 4" oil shocks (I would suggest either 30 or 35 wt shock oil and a spring with a low tension measure.)
-Adjustable motor mount (rcguy.com has one now)
-Stock clod tires or Imex pullers or bajas

Just remember, this is just a suggestion!

Steering Kits:
Posted by codeman55:
Is the RCGUY Steering Kit required for the RCGUY chassis or can I just use the steering kit that I have on my stock Clod Buster?
Reply by 82supra:
In answer to your question, no. The stock steering set up won't work on the Gecko-fied Clodbuster. The reason for this is that the stock steering system mounts in the center of the chassis, and goes out to each gearbox. The Gecko uses the center of it's chassis for battery mounting. I know that some of Thunder Tech steering kits work with the Gecko or of course RCGUY's Steering Kit/Bumper Kit will work as well.

Post by Stampede720:
Can i use my stock clod bumpers with the RCGUY Steering Kit?
Reply by 82supra:
No, the servo mount is in the way of the stock bumper mount. The RCGUY bumper kit work, however.

Posted by Stampede720:
First off, I got my new steering kit yesterday, and i have to say it makes an icredible difference. Going from a 50 oz in. servo that came with my MX-3 in the stock setup to dual 645's right on the gearbox is quite a difference. Everything was packaged excellently, and it arrived promptly. You might have sold a future Gecko...

Now for my question. The one thing I don't like is that the hitec servo's seem to stick out quite a bit. I mounted them with the servo posts "under" the mounting tabs, and I think I could get them on "behind" the posts if I shaved the little tab thingy off. However, it doesn't look like it will clear the stock metal axle brace(something I definitely want to keep). Any thoughts or tips, anyone.
Reply by Krod:
Ok first off...DO NOT SHAVE THE BRACES ON THE SERVO HORN EARS! i just broke my brand new hitec 645 on the front of my gecko because the servo saver stuck out so far and as i was decending a set of rocks/grass, the truck slid, hit another rock head on and snapped my servo case at the horns. I strongly reccomend bumpers to ANYONE putting their servos on the axles (RCGUY style). I'll be fabbing these while i earn enough $$ to get a new servo (or at least a new case)

Now on to your question...
The servos can be mounted behind the standoff posts, but you will have to custom fab a set of posts or use the old style associated (just little hunks of undrilled nylon) posts. talk to gprecon. He did exactally what i am talking about with his gecko. seems to work well. the servos will fit without you grinding out the metal braces on the gearboxes if you make the brackets properly spaced.
Reply by 82supra:
I will send you the aluminum stand offs for you so that the servo fits properly. This offer is valid for anyone else who bought a Steering Kit from rcguy.com and needs the servo standoffs. Please email me at:


with the topic "servo standoffs from clodtalk". I will know that they are free ones

Yes, Krod-clod is correct that the hi-tec will not fit when installed behind the servo posts.
Posted by Gprecon:
Can anyone recommend a set of shocks for my Gecko setup? This is my first build-up, so I don't really have any idea of what my options are regarding shocks. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

My Clod is being purpose-built as a gear reduced rock crawler. I want shocks that compliment the Gecko chassis, and ones that work well in extremely technical terrain, offering optimal dampening while not adversely affecting wheel travel. Bang per buck is taken into consideration as well.
Reply by 82supra:

Yes, the stock T/E Maxx shocks are very good. The 4" duratrax shocks work well, although its a good idea to replace the seals with Team Associated shock seals. The Team Associated 3.5" or 4" aluminum body shocks work very well. They are a little more pricey, however they last forever. I usually use 30 to 35 weight shock oil and for Team Associated, I use a veriety of springs, although the blue spring seems to work very well. The best idea for springs is too experiement with different shock weights that fit your driving style.

Posted by crawloveryou:
Hey guys I have a question for somebody. On the gecko chassis with it set up nice and high for some serious rock crawling how far is it from center of front wheel to center of back wheel. I am making a crew cab dually and i want the wheel wells to match up nice
Reply by 82supra:
With it set up with 4" oil shocks, raised up so that a pop can can go under the chassis, it is around 13.25" down to 13".

Posted by Rubicon51:
I'm new to the clod craze and I'm building a gecko rock crawler. I have always owned nitro rc's mainly because of run time. I have not purchased my Gecko yet because I have been looking for the right chassis, and I think the Gecko is it, most bang for the buck.

I want to know does the gecko have room for two battery packs wired in parrallel for some series run time?
Reply by 82supra:
There is another way as well. I have started making 4 standoffs which raise up the battery cups holding bar high enough to hold two batteries side by side. They are $7US for aset of four and hardware shipped anywhere in the US or Canada. International orders will be a little more
Reply by Krod:
I just did my dual battery setup on a stock Gecko chassis. used 4 tmaxx servo bell-crank posts that i pirated from our "broken parts box" at the shop. i simply used them as stand offs to make the straps fit over the batteries. the only real work was to cut 4 screw heads off of some old screws i had and thread one end into the battery cup and one end into the post. easy and effective. then thread the associated screws into the top of the maxx posts, attach the straps and batteries and away you go. I also layed my batteries on their sides (side x side layout) rather than on top of each other if it helps. I cant wait to see what Michael is producing next for this chassis

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