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Talk about what bodies fit, as well as your painting, and other body techniques here.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
I'll probably get some hate for this.. but so mode it be.. So I got a 'Buster off of eBay, intact (Minus body worth speaking of), box fresh for $150ish. Took it apart, cleaned it up, put some ball bearings in it, replaced the Johnsons with some chinese Ball Bearing 27T's. Also made all the red plastic yellow... So I needed a Body for it... Clod Bodies are an arm and leg, Some Lexans look decent. Then I remembered a Toy I had in the attic that the novelty wore off pretty quick... (Namely because the drive portion of it could be described as 'Cute')... Wheelbase seemed right... Lets just see....
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Oh, I'm loaded with delusions of grandure. a 5 channel radio would handle that (I happen to have a 6 channel airtronics kicking around). Both faux rocket pods track and point with the barrel (And are hollow) ... I'm imagining a FPV Camera in one and a ridiculous LED Flashlight/Laserpointer in the other... Maybe an LED Lightbar in front of the grill. I had Pipedreams of making such a truck 20 years ago, but technology hadn't caught up yet.. now it's over the counter...
- Sixtys Guy
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1531
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:48 am
- Location: Tasmania, Australia
I like it too!
Done - temporarily at least. I removed the circuit board from the original vehicle, so it still functions (Albeit with a separate controller). The trick was the gearbox that rotated the turret was actually mounted to the chassis of the truck. Sorry, but I didn't think to photograph the process. I had to flip the motor so the terminals would stick out of the bottom of the box, which takes a bit of trimming. (The 130 motor has a flat spot on the bellhousing so it can only fit in one way, the transmission case needed to be trimmed.SFC K wrote:That is pretty cool looking and if you can get it to shoot the airsoft cannon that would be a bonus!
To stop the motor from torquing out of position I trimmed a piece of plastic (AKA, Coffee Can Lid) to sit flush against the transmission and rest against the flat on the 130 motor. I used three 3x30mm (The motor screws from the ClodBuster, actually) to hold the transmission to the underside of the body. Important note: There is a 3mm nut on each of the screws between the body and the underside of the transmission. This was required to line up the gears laterally. I'll need to fab some body mounts next...
As for the radio system.. If I can figure out some sort of Mixing action, I think could get away with 4 channels. The motor that drives the gun only needs to turn one way, as does the inclination motor. The barrel goes up and down on a crank/rod assembly, so when you try to change elevation, the motor continues to crank unidirectionally and lowers the barrel only after hitting the top of the swing. So only the traversing motor needs reverse action
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