how many tooth is the traxxas pinion gear?

I get the 13T one's, same tooth count as stock clod pinions.
Stock pinion on the slash 4x4 just happens to be...........13t 32p, just like the clod's, only steel.

Back to the zilla'
Had to rob the lower shock mounts off it for the super-clod. So the stock one's are back on for now. I still need to crack open that gearcase too.

I have decided against putting the castle stuff in there. I think I'm gonna keep the VXL's in it......unless I destroy what the 6900's just went into.......

I think I figured out a better battery arrangement too.

Pics of the VXL install in the zilla. The new plexiglas top plate makes it real hard to get the batteries strapped into place now. I have some idea's though, and if they work I should be able to relocate the lower links.

As soon as I get done with the super clod I'll be working on this again. The F-650 body is going back on the super clod, not yet decided what body will go on the zilla.

Now I know what body is going on there. I had a wrangler rubicon body, finally decided to cut it out and paint it. I'm going to let the paint cure for a while before I run it though. Undecided if I'm going to leave the windows clear or black them out (the body is bright blue).

I was trying to put the blackfoot body on there, but it would not fit the way I had my electronics, so I tried to rearrange them.....long-story-short.....that didn't work. Then got mad as I took them off for nothing....decided I didn't want to use tape again....and drilled a lot of holes.

Front gearcase is fixed, and yup, I was right, exploded another diff.....and it chewed up the large counter gear too....I also decided to be different and fix it without removing the axle from it's linkage. Mostly because re-ligning it up is such a royal PITA.

I put my trusty slash battery-box in as a battery tray, so now I think I will have a good spot freed up for re-locating the links when I get to that point.

Thats a clean setup. Looks good!

Sooooo........I finally got to run it again with the VXL's (I broke gears on the first outing).
........and guess what?........I broke more gears on the 2nd outing...

But not before I got some quality run-time in the snow.
Truck handled really good and jumped really good too. Then I had to hit the breaks and snap!.....followed by crunching/skipping....... ....... .....

I was really POed!!!! ........I ran that thing till the fronts would not catch anymore....and that took another 5 minutes.....

I totally killed the large counter gear.....I mean it just about peeled off the bearings.
Lesson learned, don't use old gears with brushless.......

So last night I tore it down........even the gearcase halves were cracked....

Replaced the halves and put brand new tamiya gears in there. Gave it a run today before leaving.....much better!

I will say though.......if one more stupid thing breaks on this I am pulling the VXL's and putting either the ez-runs or an EVX-2 (or roller) and it's off to the B/S/T......

But for now.........all is well. Oh and new battery tray is working out good too.

Wondering little bout how your dual esc run and on two batteries? Also if anybody has tried running stock esc with 4 batteries and 2 esc just unplugging a motor to each esc and also the power the esc s are putting to receiver is stable?
Opinions!

I can run them on 1 battery each, or off the same battery with a Y-harness connector.

Stock esc?......the tamiya one? 4 batteries would kill it. It gets warm just running a single 2S lipo or 7-cell nimh pack.
If I understand what you are asking.....I would say run 2 batteries, one for each (stock) esc, and solder a second pair of leads to the motor it shall run, then hook all 4 leads up just like how the motor is wired on a traxxas summit.

To run dual esc's (tamiya or otherwise) you will need a servo Y-harness to be able to run them both on channel 2 (throttle). If there is any doubt about overloading the reciever, then cut the red wire on the y-harness right before it plugs into one of the esc's (I usually do this to the one running the rear motor).

If you really wanna' run 4 batteries, I would say get a pair of traxxas EVX-2's.
Not sure if titan monster 550's would take that (being wired like a titan 775), but that's the only thing that comes to mind for me.

Your life would be much simpler if you just snagged the EXV-2 and titan motors out of an e-revo and dropped that in your clod though.

Or use the stock clod esc the one from 1987 you can run 2 of those not sure if they would take 4 batterys.

That would be an MSC though, not an ESC......I knew what you meant though...
And I'm also wondering if he means ESC or MSC myself.

yea the msc i know you can run two of them.it might take 4 batterys. its the motors that you would have to worry about

You can run a ton of voltage through an msc, altho you have to add extra reststors to controll the heat

I'm trying to run two traxxas evx 14.4v model number 3014 on futaba TX and 6 channel receiver airplane style. Modded my remote so both sticks spring to neutral, an each speed control has its own channel also turning four wheel steering. Wondering if power from 2 evx will burn anything up running 4 7.2v batteries?

I thought you might be trying something like that. (I seen your build).
I would say either only run one BEC, or none (and use a reciever pack).

I have hooked it all up and it does work but dont kno if its stable, I'll prob test run it and the time it does run will be because it took that long to burn up! Just wondered if itd Ben done?