My first nitro is on the way...

Talk about glow, gas, and nitro engines, tuning, and fuels here.
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Bolt_Crank
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My first nitro is on the way...

Post by Bolt_Crank » Tue Oct 18, 2005 11:30 am

My Jato is in the mail, all broken in and everything :lol:

Just wondering a few things aboot (;)) the basics...

tuning = nice trail of smoke through the entire RPM band

I should probable get a temp gun...

I know after run oil is needed, or at the very least preferred...

What percentage fuel should I run?

Also, since I'm in the Great White North, what's the lowest ambient temperature nitro's are good for? :lol:

if it'll handle -20 degrees C, then I can throw some paddle tires on the back and make skii's for the front :lol: :shock:

Any other tips and tricks I should know?
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Halgar
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Post by Halgar » Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:30 pm

Nitros don't like the cold, they don't run well, but I can't tell you how cold, cold is. I've seen vids of a few running in the snow and ice, one (B3 I think ) that had the paddles and ski's as you mentioned. Another was a Savage or Maxx with spiked tires and chains, which was pretty cool.

With tuning experience, you can probably rely on the smoke trail, though as a new owner, I highly recommend a temp gun and forget about the smoke!!! I tried both the spit test smoke trail methods on my Maxx and neither were accurate ways of knowing what the engine was doing.

After run oil or WD-40 will do nicely. What you're doing is flushing out the acids and varnish created during the combustion process and replacing it with a moisture removing lubricant (RC fuel draws moisture which will rust internal parts ). For this reason, you don't want to leave your fuel container uncapped or residual fuel in the fuel tank.

Fuel percentage depends on what you're doing. I'd go with manufacturers recommended unless you are racing, then maybe a 5 to 10% bump would be in order. Just don't changing your fuel every time you buy more, the engines don't like that too much.
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Bolt_Crank
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Post by Bolt_Crank » Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:43 pm

I guess I'll have to live with the smoke test until I can afford a temp gun :lol:


I'll brush up on all the manufacturer reccomendations once it comes in... but I never planned on switching anyway... even if I ever do get the time to boot it down to the local track (which shows up in R/C Car listing! first in track order list for Canadjun tracks :lol: )


and come wintertime, if it runs too cold, maybe I'll restrict the air filter a bit... there's more oxygen in cold air anyway :?

and if it still don't run after that... well, I am keeping my clod (finally running at 10 cells instead of 12 on my SR...)

I'll stick with WD-40 then, probably a lot cheaper than AR oil... just pop the glow plug and spray it in?
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Halgar
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Post by Halgar » Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:52 pm

It's not the intake air that's the problem, it's the ambient air taking too much heat away from the engine to run properly. Also, because it's so cold, you will have a tendancy to lean it out too much to get the temps up to a runable level that you can damage the engine in the process. I'm not saying DON'T run the truck in the cold, only saying you need to be careful. If temps are a problem, you could probably wrap a heat shield around the head or close off air flow holes in the body to increase running temps without leaning out the fuel mix.
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Bolt_Crank
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Post by Bolt_Crank » Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:58 pm

I'll manage one way or another with the temperature :twisted:

even if I have to wrap the cooling fins with pipe insulation tape...


any other hidden mysteries for us youngin's? :)
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Halgar
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Post by Halgar » Tue Oct 18, 2005 2:50 pm

I'm far from being an expert as my experience is limited to a POS Maxx that never ran for beans. Since you're past the break in, that's a big thing off the worry list. As long as you can keep the temps in check and have a good afterrun procedure, it should last you pretty well. I will caution you about pulling the plug and applying the afterrun oil that way. Repeated plug removal can damage the threads as well as it's highly probable that dirt will drop or get washed into the hole, which will scratch up the piston and sleeve. IMO it is better to pull the air cleaner off (you have to clean or replace it anyway ), and put the afterrun oil in there then pull the engine over a few times to draw it into the cylinder. I usually take a swab and clean the carburetor throat out first just to be sure that nothing can get washed into the engine.
I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

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Bolt_Crank
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Post by Bolt_Crank » Tue Oct 18, 2005 3:00 pm

I was never entirely sure how the after run stuff was supposed to be applied...


$150 for a Craftsman temp gun good up to 500 degrees F :lol:



Best way to learn is by experience, I suppose (though a few helpful hints are always welcome ;))


as for the air filter oil, is it a specific kind of oil, or will pretty much anything work?
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Halgar
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Post by Halgar » Tue Oct 18, 2005 3:18 pm

You won't go wrong to follow the owners manual, and I think that most of them say to pull the plug and drop in the oil. From reading what other nitro pro's do and why is where I came up with NOT removing the plug unless absolutely necessary. Some of the pro's say to replace the airfilter, not clean it, because cleaning imbeds debris into the element that can work their way into the engine. I personally think that's a tad more extreme, especially if you're careful in how you clean the filter, keep it properly oiled, and always install it "dirty" side up. As for the oil, anything with RC on the label is going to be expensive. Go to the autoparts store or motorcycle shop and get air filter oil there, it's the same stuff, and for what you'll pay for a couple ounces of RC oil, you'll get a quart at the parts store.

The temp gun I recommend is the Raytek with laser pointer:
heat gun
I have the one without the pointer and it's much harder to figure out where you're pointing it.

There is no substitute for experience, though you can pick up a whole lot of info from other's trial and errors. LOL :lol:
I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

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Post by Bolt_Crank » Tue Oct 18, 2005 3:26 pm

Mental note: cheap air filter oil :lol:

too bad buddy with those particular temp guns doesn't ship to Canada... but at least now I know a cheaper one to look for :D

gonna have to browse my radioshack... or whatever the name changed to now...

I think replacing the air filter every time is only really going to help in high-end race cars anyway....


though, who knows what I'll be doing with this thing in the future :lol:

I'll have to wait and see... and save my money :twisted:



edit: just watched the Jato videos on the Tower Hobbies site, and :shock: :twisted: :D
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Halgar
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Post by Halgar » Tue Oct 18, 2005 3:41 pm

Ratek makes the Radio Shack model as well. The link I posted was obviously eBay, but Ratek should be sold by other companies, possibly one in your neck of the woods. Maybe you can find the Ratek website and find a local dealer.

Replacing the air filter doesn't have anything to do with airflow, it's about the possiblility of getting dirt in the engine by not getting and old filter clean. I still think that's a tad extreme as long as you're being careful.
I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

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Bolt_Crank
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Post by Bolt_Crank » Tue Oct 18, 2005 3:47 pm

*nods*
I shall endeavour to ensure proper filter cleaning :D


and much fun will ensue! :lol:
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Halgar
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Post by Halgar » Tue Oct 18, 2005 4:30 pm

:lol: :lol: :lol:
I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

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Bolt_Crank
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Post by Bolt_Crank » Tue Oct 18, 2005 4:33 pm

I'll be sure to take pics and such :D

It'll look good beside my Clod, and Fighter Buggy RX :lol:


Sleep time for me! Have a good day!
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Post by hated1racing » Fri Nov 04, 2005 4:03 am

lmk when you get it! remember it is tuned for high altitude when you get it. i used 2 stroke motorcycle filter oil and it was flawless. PJ1 oil and air filter cleaner.
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Post by TIER » Fri Nov 04, 2005 4:43 am

YOU CAN RUN IN THE COLD.


theres nothing wrong wiht cold running as long as you take the right precautions. some guys buy second cooling heads and cut the upper half of fins off.. making a smaller heatsink. this helps the motor reatin heat. you can tune be removing fins. or like halgar said you can also get alum ducting tape and wrap the head fins in that. more tape, more heat.

duratrax makes a nice temp gun for about $30. the raytek is nice but way way overkill. you dont need a lazer pointer to stick it and point at the plug and get a reading.

stick with 20% fuel. 10% and 5% wil rob you of power and do nothing for the motor. i run all my motors (racing or not) on 30% just because it burns cleaner and is easier to tune.. its not nescisarrily harder on the motor. changing fuel hurting the motor is also a myth. as long as you can tune.. your motor wont mind at all.

stick wiht rc brand filter oil.. the mower/bike stuff isnt really the same and cant cope with as much fine dirt and filth. it may work but i have seen some nasty ones using bike oil ome into the shop... cleaning filters also isnt a problem as long as you do it carefully and thouroughly. i have used the same elements for months with propper cleaning without a hickup.

we run in the cold all the time wiht fine success. just take all the needed precations and make SURE you stay away from water and snow.. they cause nothign but problems.

any other questions? feal free to ask the nitro master 8)
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