rex21's ClodBlazer

Talk about the Clod Buster, and all other motor on axle trucks here.
Want to see your truck featured on the home page? Enter our monthly contest in the general discussion section!
Forum rules
Want to see your truck featured on the home page? Enter our monthly contest in the general discussion section!
Post Reply
User avatar
rex21
Approved Member
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:42 pm
Location: Star Prairie, WI

rex21's ClodBlazer

Post by rex21 » Sun Dec 29, 2013 3:51 am

This truck has been about 3 years in the making. I traded a friend something for a complete Bullhead about that long ago. I drove it around for a little bit, and realized that was not what I was after. So I tore it down and started mocking up a Reign J2-TT chassis I had from when I was into crawling. The links are made from x-acto knife handles since we had a large drawer of them at work. The upper link mounts are home made out of 1/2" delrin.

Image

The wheelbase was made to fit a 1980 Chevy Blazer body for a T-Maxx, since I had a new one on the shelf. I stole the servo mounts and steering links that I had made from my super class crawler.

Image

I then got sidetracked, for 2 or 3 years. I could not decide on a good way to mount shocks. We bought a house. Life happened.
After I got the garage all set up, and everything was organized, I called my brother over one night to help me with ideas on my shock mounting problem. I am used to mounting shocks on my Axial crawler. Thing are pretty simple on them, but the clod was just larger than I was used to.
I was trying to design a frame on top kinda like a Zilla 2 so the shocks could be mounted vertically. Finally I decided to just make some extensions for the tops of the existing chassis. But what to use....

A stock Axial chassis pulled from the scrap parts bin was sacrificed.
Image

I made some lower link shock mounts out of 1/4" aluminum for the bottoms, and I was in business.

It is currently running stock motors on a Novak MC410 esc that was given to me. Spektrum 3ch radio. 3300mah Radio Shack 6 cell batteries. Hitec 5955TG servos front and rear. Free body a guy screwed up the paint on from an axial scaler.

Image

I will be upgrading to Atomik 17x2 motors and a Duratrax Intellispeed 8t esc in about 3 days!! The motors I wanted, the esc I could not pass up for $35 new in box. Not what I was after, but it should hopefully work well for the price.
Last edited by rex21 on Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:01 am, edited 2 times in total.

User avatar
andymac0035
Administrator
Posts: 11220
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:54 pm
Location: Canaan, NH

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by andymac0035 » Sun Dec 29, 2013 5:57 am

Interesting combinations you got there. Truck looks good, I look forward to seeing vids of it running.
The links are made from x-acto knife handles
^^^That is awesome! I love using stuff that people would not expect on builds.

User avatar
rex21
Approved Member
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:42 pm
Location: Star Prairie, WI

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by rex21 » Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:22 am

Thank you sir. Not your typical clod build but it works. This truck had to be made using stuff that I had. The only things I have purchased specifically are the motors and esc.
I should have cleaned it up before taking the body off shot. The wiring mess is kinda embarassing. We have about a foot of snow so I zip tied a bag around the esc and reciever today so I could go out and enjoy the heatwave(40 degrees).

Eventually I will either make new sideplates or build off of these ones. I am not afraid of making parts, but need something to go off of, and this site has given me some inspiration for new parts.

As for the links, I thought it was a good idea at the time, and they were free. If the date on the pic is right that was over 2 years ago. I have since obtained a link maker machine. :)
Image

User avatar
rex21
Approved Member
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:42 pm
Location: Star Prairie, WI

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by rex21 » Wed Jan 22, 2014 12:36 pm

The motors and ESC showed up a couple days after my last post, and I went out and bought a new 7 cell pack. Man what a difference. It can actually jump now. Before it kinda just fell over jumps, did not really leave ground. Sorry no pics or video yet.
The ESC I bought is doing rather well, except for the fact I have it in a bag, and that makes it thermal. I am now looking for an EVX-2.
I knew I should have bought waterproof from the beginning. We have 2 feet or so of snow on the ground, like I'm not gonna play in it.

I have a question for you guys. What is a good width for a Clod chassis? I am going to make something sort of like a zilla 4, but without the cantilevers.

User avatar
andymac0035
Administrator
Posts: 11220
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:54 pm
Location: Canaan, NH

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by andymac0035 » Wed Jan 22, 2014 4:22 pm

Usually an extra 1/2 inch on each side looks pretty good.

User avatar
rex21
Approved Member
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:42 pm
Location: Star Prairie, WI

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by rex21 » Wed Jan 22, 2014 8:36 pm

Did you mean wheel wideners? I was talking about chassis width.

User avatar
andymac0035
Administrator
Posts: 11220
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:54 pm
Location: Canaan, NH

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by andymac0035 » Wed Jan 22, 2014 8:54 pm

Yeah, I meant wheel wideners.
For chassis width, that really comes down to link geometery and the limitations of what fits/works.

User avatar
rex21
Approved Member
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:42 pm
Location: Star Prairie, WI

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by rex21 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 3:02 am

Well I decided on a width of 3 1/2".
I made some lower link and shock mounts the other night, but did not take pics of those.
Bought an EVX-2 from someone the other day. Not the lipo cutoff version but for $25 I can't really complain.

Last night I tore the whole truck down and checked the guts in the axles. 2 bearings in each axle was all I found.
So I tore apart my super class crawler and robbed bearings from that.
Today I started to design a chassis, and this is what I came up with.

Image

Not finished, just together for mock up. I will put some lightening holes in later.
Better get back to it, the lower links have to get shortened since I added the mounts.
Last edited by rex21 on Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
rex21
Approved Member
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:42 pm
Location: Star Prairie, WI

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by rex21 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:31 am

Here it is as a roller.
The chassis looks really tall until the body goes on, then it looks fine.
Links are pretty much parallel as she sits.
The shocks seam really stiff, I knew they would be a little harder but not like this.

Image

Image

Image

Let me hear your opinions, but keep in mind it is not quite finished.

User avatar
andymac0035
Administrator
Posts: 11220
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:54 pm
Location: Canaan, NH

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by andymac0035 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:53 am

I like it. It's simple..... yet effective.
On your shocks, unbolt the uppers from the frame rail, and bolt them into one of the unused holes of the center-chassis. Having them raked in at an angle like that will have the effect of making them "softer" and you will get more suspension travel and more overall flex out of your suspension. You will find yourself needing sway bars after doing that though.

User avatar
ramflames
Approved Member
Posts: 144
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:07 am
Location: Liverpool, New York

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by ramflames » Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:58 pm

I like it, but I was wondering. I see all these different types and styles of metal made chassis. One, does it add weight or take away weight if it is aluminum? Second, if using aluminum, is there concerns of it bending from harsh landings, crashes Etc? Just a thought... :?:

User avatar
andymac0035
Administrator
Posts: 11220
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:54 pm
Location: Canaan, NH

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by andymac0035 » Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:01 am

one: Yes, aluminum is heavier than plastic.

two: Yes, if you crash there is always the risk of bending.

User avatar
rex21
Approved Member
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:42 pm
Location: Star Prairie, WI

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by rex21 » Sat Feb 01, 2014 5:59 am

Yes, aluminum is heavier than plastic if you were comparing the same size block of material.
I think most alloy chassis are lighter than a stock one though, because there is less there for structure.

My EVX-2 arrived yesterday, and I got the connectors changed today.
Took it for a test run with a 7 cell 5100mah battery and am super happy with it!
It is way faster than with the Duratrax esc. Is that because it is split for 2 motors right on the board?

Anyway, with new esc in hand, I made an electronics tray from some 5/16 ABS screwed between the side plates.
Then screwed the esc right to that with 2 drilled and tapped holes.
The receiver is still in a baggy, till I can get or make a waterproof box for it.
Fired up the lathe and shortened the body mounts and made even more holes in the beater body.

Here are some pics from today, it is a little dirty from doing donuts in the garage. The floor is all wet and sandy from the vehicles melting off.

Image

Image

Image

User avatar
andymac0035
Administrator
Posts: 11220
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:54 pm
Location: Canaan, NH

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by andymac0035 » Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:21 am

For whatever reason, all the duratrax esc's I've ever messed with didn't seem to have that much power.

Basically what happened was that your motors were asking for more power from the battery than the esc could handle, so it only sent what it could handle. The EVX-2 on the other hand CAN handle the load, and is sending all the power the motors want.

User avatar
rex21
Approved Member
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:42 pm
Location: Star Prairie, WI

Re: rex21's Cheap Clod

Post by rex21 » Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:32 am

Makes perfect sense to me. I should have listened to my gut, and your electronics write up, and bought one in the first place. Oh well, the 8t will go in my XXX-T.

This truck just got way more fun for $25.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests